Simien Mountains: Gelada Baboons and the Roof of Ethiopia

Field notes

The Simien Mountains in northern Ethiopia are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and the home of three mammals found nowhere else: the gelada baboon (a grass-eating primate that lives in troops of several hundred), the Walia ibex, and the Ethiopian wolf. Trekking routes range from a single-day hike to a 9-day traverse that includes Ras Dashen at 4,550 m — Ethiopia's highest peak.

Why go: The landscapes are otherworldly — vertical cliffs dropping 1,000 metres, rolling alpine meadows, and some of the best trekking in Africa. The cost is roughly half what you'd pay for a comparable Kilimanjaro expedition. Geladas are habituated to humans; you can sit among them without disturbing their grazing.

How to get there: Fly to Gondar (GDQ) from Addis Ababa (ADD), 1h 30m on Ethiopian Airlines, USD 60-150. From Gondar, a 2-hour drive to Debark, then a half-day drive to the trailhead.

Practical notes: This is high altitude. Acclimatise in Addis Ababa (2,400 m) and Gondar (2,133 m) first. The Simiens are cold at night — pack layers. Bring Ethiopian birr in cash; the trail towns have no ATMs.