Albanian Riviera: Ionian Coastline Before the Crowds

Field notes

For decades, the 100-kilometre coastline south of Vlorë was off-limits to foreigners — a string of concrete bunker outposts guarding an ideological border with no one. Today it is open, mostly uncrowded, and astonishingly beautiful. White pebble beaches, turquoise water that looks like a screen-saver, and Ottoman-era hill towns you can wander through without hearing another language spoken.

Why go: Prices are roughly half of neighbouring Croatia or Greece. Hospitality is direct and generous. Seafood dinners in villages like Qeparo or Borsh cost 8-12 EUR for two. The road from Himarë to Sarandë is one of the most dramatic drives in the Mediterranean.

How to get there: Tirana International (TIA) is the main airport; buses run from Tirana south to Vlorë (3 hours) and onwards along the coast. Ferries from Corfu (Greece) to Sarandë are frequent in summer.

Practical notes: Albania is 95% cash-friendly. ATMs are widespread but bring some EUR as backup. Roads are improving but can be potholed inland. The water is generally swimmable; tap water is not.