Choquequirao: Sister City of Machu Picchu, Without the Crowds

Field notes

Two days' walk into the Andes from the town of Cachora lies Choquequirao — a 15th-century Inca complex roughly the size of Machu Picchu but built on three plateaus of a mountain ridge. Excavated terraces, ritual baths, and llama-shaped stone carvings sprawl across a kilometre of mountainside; only a fraction of the site has been properly excavated. The whole complex can be visited by foot — no trains, no buses, no entrance fee beyond a tiny ticket.

Why go: This is the trek that serious trekkers do before they turn to Machu Picchu (or after). It is steep — 1,500 m down to the Apurímac river and 1,500 m back up — and remote enough that on some sections you walk a full day without meeting anyone. The reward is a site most travellers never see.

How to get there: Fly to Cusco (CUZ) or take an overnight bus from Lima (16 hours). From Cusco, a 4-5 hour bus or shared taxi to Cachora, then 4-5 days of hiking.

Practical notes: Hire a local guide and an arriero (muleteer) in Cachora. Bring trekking poles, layers for cold nights at altitude, and water purification. Carry cash in small Peruvian soles.