Matera: Cave Dwellings of Basilicata

Field notes

Matera is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. People lived in caves carved into the tufa limestone of the Murgia plateau for at least 9,000 years; the Sassi (cave dwellings) were inhabited into the 1950s, when the Italian government evacuated the residents due to appalling living conditions. Today many Sassi have been restored as boutique hotels, restaurants, and art galleries, and the city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Why go: Matera is the most photogenic city in southern Italy, with honey-coloured stone glowing at sunset and a film-set quality that has drawn dozens of movie productions. The cathedral (Cattedrale di Matera) sits at the top of the Civita, with views over the Gravina canyon. Restaurants in the Sassi serve cucina povera — bread, beans, lamb, local wines.

How to get there: Bari airport is the closest hub (1 hour by car or bus). Direct trains from Bari Centrale take 75 minutes and run hourly.

Practical notes: Matera is small and walkable, but the cobblestones are steep — pack flat shoes. Many cave hotels have cool interiors even in August. Try the local pecorino cheese.